Sashimi Japan: Kyoto

Kyoto served as the imperial capital of Japan for over a millenium before the Tokugawa Shogunate (feudal Japanese military government at the time) made Edo (old name for Tokyo) the centre of Japan's politcal power. The emperor, however, continued to reside in Kyoto until the Meiji Restoration when political and military power was formally transferred back to the Emperor, and he moved his residence to Edo/Tokyo. As such, Kyoto had always played a significant role in Japan's cultural and political history, and its character was very much defined by the Imperial Court, its nobles and Buddhist temples.

Although the face of Kyoto had changed over the centuries due to civil wars and outbreaks of fire, the city was spared from World War 2 air raids and atomic bomb attacks, thus preserving much of the feel of 'old Japan'. It is a popular tourist spot on the Japan Golden Route #1, which stretches from Tokyo via Nagoya and Mt Fuji through to Osaka. Access to Kyoto is easy via the JR Tokaido Shinkansen, by air, by bus, by car, and by local train lines. As Japan's fifth largest city, Kyoto has its own public transport networks consisting of railways, subways, and local buses.

There are lots of tourist sightseeing places in Kyoto, the more famous ones include Nijo Castle, Kyoto Imperial Palace, Kiyomizudera, Kinkakuji, Shugakuin Villa, Ryoanji Temple, Fushimi Inari Shrine, Gion district, Higashiyama district, and Arashiyama district. Famous festivals celebrated in Kyoto include Gion Matsuri, Aoi Matsuri, Jidai Matsuri, and Higashiyama Hana Toro. From Kyoto, you can also access numerous surrounding attractions, including Nara, Osaka, Himeji, Kobe, Mt Koya, Kinosaki, and Kibune. Whatever the budget, there's something in or around Kyoto for every kind of travellor. And while in Kyoto, don't forget to try out the local form of 'washoku' - traditional Japanese cuisine served in small quantities and meticulously presented in several dishes.

In my last visit to Kyoto, I decided to join in a guided day coach tour of some its famous attractions. Here are my photos of the tour:

The tour meet up point was at a local hotel where this well-dressed hotel attendant speaking in a perfect English accent greeted customers by the door.

Had a quick lunch consisting of a "man sandwich" (pork cutlet in toasts) and obanyaki (custard-filled drum-shaped dessert).

Off on the guided tour with an English-speaking Japanese tour guide.

1) Nijo Castle

Our first stop was Nijo Castle, built in the 1600s. This flatland castle used to function as a major checkpoint along a main road into Kyoto and several garrisons of samurai-class warriors were stationed therein. It was as much a display of power to the local folks as a security checkpoint for travellors intending to enter the imperial capital. It also doubled as a 'getaway' palace for the Emperor and his court officials - apparently he only ever visited it once in his entire lifetime.

The original main gate accessing the courtyard where travellors were security checked by samurai-officials.

As you entered the gateway, this guard house stood to the right. Mannequins dressed up as the samurai-officials could be seen carrying out their duties.

To the left across the courtyard stood this display map of the fortress castle. The upper smaller area enclosed by its own square moat had been destroyed in civil wars and closed to public access. We were able to access the larger area ('Ninomaru Castle') at the lower half of the map.

Entrance to the Ninomaru Castle, which actually consists of five interconnected buildings built entirely of cypress wood to facilitate security. During the period of civil uprisings, the Ninomaru Castle was overrun and heavily damaged by rebel factions. The damages had since been repaired though Nijo Castle never served as a security checkpoint again.

Due to the light-sensitive nature of old buildings, no photography was allowed within Ninomaru Castle. This was where we changed into slippers to enter the castle.

Shot #1 of the landscape garden at the rear of Ninomaru Castle. That strange looking plant at the centre of the photo was actually a tropical tree covered in straw to protect it from the cold over the winter months.

Shot #2 of the garden.

Shot #3 of the garden.

2) Kinkakuji
Next we visited Kinkakuji - the Golden Pavilion. Kinkakuji started its life as a retirement villa of a court official where he spent several years after retiring from active service to the imperial court. Following his conversion to Zen Buddhism, he decided to turn the villa into a temple, and then donated it to Zen Buddhism after his death. The golden colour of the temple stems from the use of thousands of gold-plated metallic leaves strenuously treated to protect them from the weather, and to help the gold keep its shine. The original temple fell victim to arson, and a replica was later built in its place.

The map of the temple grounds.

Kinkakuji from across the pond.

Love this photo of the temple within its idyllic surrounds.

That started out originally as a bonsai 'plant' cared for and moulded by members of the same family over several generations into a bonsai 'tree' taking the shape of a large sail boat.

The teahouse within the temple grounds. When I visited, there were three inhouse heaters going at full blast and making the place feel like a sauna. Lol.

For a small price, you get served a small bowl of green tea and a sweet snack.

3) Kyoto Imperial Palace
Our final stop was the Kyoto Imperial Palace - the Japanese imperial household's original residence prior to the Meiji Restoration. Following the Restoration, the Emperor moved his imperial residence to Tokyo, and the Kyoto Imperial Palace was decommissioned as a royal residence but preserved as a heritage landmark. That said, some of the palace buildings are still in current use to host and entertain foreign dignitaries and ambassadors.

We entered the palace grounds through an active gateway-cum-security checkpoint still in current use.

One of the many magnificent gateways around the castle grounds, no longer in use.

This was the building where the coronation ceremony for new Emperors used to be held. Nowadays everything's done in Tokyo.

The brightly-coloured gateway into the main courtyard, though public access was forbidden.

That main palace building in the background was the original one built centuries ago. Visitors to the palace grounds cannot access the building due to OH&S issues and also to prevent damage to the ancient building.

Other areas of Kyoto
After the guided tour, I decided to explore some parts of Kyoto on my own.

Kamo River that runs through Kyoto.

I made it a point to go for a quick visit to Gion - Kyoto's geisha district. Along its main street, Hanamikoji dori, were shops with unique shopfronts built to reflect how it looked like in 'old Kyoto', thus giving it a very special time-worn feel.

Another shot of Hanmikoji dori with its customised 'ancient-looking' shopfronts.

Even the buildings along its side streets were given the nostalgic touch.

Next I visited the main shopping area of downtown Kyoto - Shijo street. The above was one of the covered arcades running off Shijo street, lined with shops and restaurants on both sides.